Finsteraarhorn 4.274m (normal route)

Our team already had spent 3 days in  the Bernese Oberland getting together, doing some acclimatizaton tours etc. when finally the day for our "150 peak project" summit had come. Originally we had planned to climb the Gross Grünhorn. Bue due to some unforseen changes in the weather conditions we decided at short notice and by reasons of security to climb Finsteraarhorn instead.

So bang on time at 6 clock we left Finsteraarhorn hut. At first we thought to be alone on the track, but durning a short stop where we put on our crampons, we realized that we were followd by a solo-mountaineer, which in the following also took over and passed our group. Our mountain guides named him "Missing aspirant" (In their mind they probably already saw his picture hanging  at the lunch counters of the huts in the coming months).

Being surrounded by a beautiful panorama all the time, our three roped parties reached the Hugisattel (4.088m) without problems. After a short break we started the last 300m to the summit. Climbing the northwest ridge was breathtalking and pure fun. Keeping on the crampons proved to be a correct decision. The weather was at its best. Sun, blue sky, absolutely calm and a beautful panorama of Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau let us have a perfect rest on the summit. Luckily the "Missing aspirant" was still at the summit, so he could take a lot of pictures of our team wearing our Mammut Peak Collection. Unfortunately we were missing one team member who had decided to wait at the Hugisattel due to slight signs of altitude sickness.

Back from the summit, on the descent of the glacier, some snow bridges already were found to be unstable and forced us to make some detours. But the whole group arrived safe at the Finsteraarhorn hut. Back at the hut we enjoyed a good portion "Finsteraarhornrösti" (highly recommended ☺) and thoroughly happy we looked back on a perfect day in the mountains.

From the Finsteraarhorn hut ( 3048 m) climb the steep slope behind the hut. At 3.616 m turn left  and cross the rocky ridge that comes down from the summit. This place is called Frühstücksplatz (breakfast place). On the other side of ridge keep in the middle of the funnel that leads up the Hugisattel (4094 m), this is the saddle next to the  summit. Hard snow or ice, but few and harmless crevasses. From Hugisattel on easy rock to the summit, first on the west side, then keep always on the ridge. It's recommend to climb with crampons on since there may be icy sections even in summer. 

The hut was completely rebuilt in 2003 and is administered by the SAC section Oberhasli. It has 106 places for sleeping and eating and is a very comfortable hut. Maybe even a bit too luxurious for old-school alpinists. But that is a matter of personal taste. The dining room is very cozy and there is a large sun terrace where you can enjoy a beatiful view. Toilets are very clean, as is the hut in general. In the summer there's also enough running water for washing. 

How to get there : 

Access to Finsteraarhornhütte is long in any case, and leads over glaciers. The least access time is one of the Jungfraujoch ago. From the south, the route from Fiescheralp the Great Aletsch glacier and the Grünhornlücke opened in 2009, and the route of Bellwald are possible. From the east, the hut from the Oberaarsee be achieved. A popular access leads from the Mönchsjochhütte about the Big Fiescherhorn (Walchergrat) or via the Fieschersattel (see details Alpine Tours Jungfrau Region, SAC Verlag, 2010).

• From Jungfraujoch station:  F. 6-6½ h (and 7-8 h for the opposite direction)
• From Lake Oberaar:  7–8 h. (6–7 h for the opposite direction). Taking the route via via Gemschlicke is not recommended anymore (falling stones/rocks)
• From Fiescheralp: 8-9 h

For detailled info and actual conditions check the Finsteraarhorn huts homepage.