Mangart (2679 m), The Slovenian route

Mangart is a mighty mountain on the border between Slovenia and Italy. It is visible from other mountains in a duo with its neighbouring Jalovec. The access to the route is very easy as the highest Slovenian road leads all the way to Mangartsko sedlo (2079 m).

The original trail to Mangart used to start at Mangartsko sedlo (saddle). But because the trail was cut into two by a state line after world war two, which could not be crossed during the time of the Iron Curtain, each side made their own trails leading to the top. That is one of the reasons why the Slovenian route was created. Mountaineers from Tolmin equipped the over 500 meters high western face on the Slovenian side of the mountain in 1953. However, the Italians made an even more attractive path, following the vertical right edge of the northern face in 1956 as to avoid the Yugoslavian territory. Today Slovenians, Italians, Austrians and people from all over the world meet on either the Slovenian or Italian route leading to the top.

The line of the Slovenian route cannot be missed. It follows an obvious transverse couloir, which splits the western face from bottom to top. The traverse ends on a bigger ledge, a perfect spot to take a little break, then it carries on to the final climbing section up to a subtle ridge which takes you to the cross on the top.

Descend on the classic (Italian) path on the other side of the mountain.

Leave the car before the gate at the end of the Mangart road. You can ascend to the saddle either on the road or take the trail past the mountain hut.

From Mangartsko sedlo head on beneath the rock tower of Mali Rateški Mangart. The path splits above the tower – straight on is the classic Italian route on which you will descend, however, head right across the scree slope to the entrance of the Slovenian route.

Orientation is not a problem, follow the markings and safety equipment along the distinctive couloir (it is well visible from below once you get closer to the face), which ends on the north-western edge of the wall. On the top of the couloir there is a nice grassy viewpoint where you can have a little rest before the final ascent.

Above the couloir you still have to climb up about 100 meters, then the path leads onto a rounded ridge which takes you to the cross on top of the mountain.

Descend on the Italian route on the eastern side, then circumvent on a long traverse above the precipices of the northern wall back to the western side. The descent to the crossroads of the Italian and Slovenian route where you started your ascent is exposed and secured with a steel cable.

Head on across the green medows of the saddle to the hut, then the car.

The 12 km long road to Mangart branches off from the Bovec – Predel regional road by the very obvious viaduct Pri Mlinču (1090 m). The road, built in 1938, is a historical landmark. It is cut into the steep slopes leading to Mangartsko sedlo, formed by 17 switchbacks and 5 tunnels. It comes to an end at the height of 2055 m, making it the highest road in Slovenia. There is an eco fee of 10 euros to drive on the road. Cars, motorcycles and small buses with up to 35 seats are allowed to drive on it.

The road lies within the Triglav National Park. To ensure safety the maximum weight allowed on the road is 90 vehicles. If the maximum is reached, you must wait for someone to return down, or head up by foot. If you are early – 8.30 start at the latest – you definitely have plenty of time.